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PROBLEM WITH GRADING SEAM


After grading the seam allowance the measurement looks correct. But if you separate that size by using the "Graded Size" function, the graded seam allowance does not appear.

Due to this, if the pattern is plotted, the seam allowance for all size remains ungraded. Graded seam allowance does not come with the piece.

Could anyone help please!

Comments

  • VasylVasyl Posts: 1,699 ✭✭✭✭
    edited December 2023
    Do you grade seams separate perimeter?!?!
    You need bigger turn back allowance on biggest size?
  • EricFromBCEricFromBC Posts: 92 ✭✭
    @khan_adnan90
    Advanced\ Seam\ Update will fix the seam allowance grading on that piece.


    In your Advanced\ Seam\ Define\ Edit Seam Properties popup, do you have Auto Update Seam checked? It will help this from happening.

     
  • khan_adnan90khan_adnan90 Posts: 45
    edited December 2023
    @EricFromBC
    Thank you very much for your guidance.


    I kept the seam like this pic and it solved the problem. 


    Thank you again.
  • khan_adnan90khan_adnan90 Posts: 45
    edited February 7
    Sorry to be here again. Actually, I am having a new problem.

    With default setting its not possible to grade seam.

    With seam properties change, its not possible to keep notch as 1st picture.
    I have tried different setting of seam properties.

    Final verdict
    - If we want to grade seam, notch on cut line will move for sure.
    - If want to keep notch like 1st picture, its not possible to print or cut graded seam.
    - Even if we manually adjust the notch on cut line, after shrinkage seam value changes according to the shrinkage%.

    Could anyone help me out please, so that its possible to keep the notch where it is and do grading of seam same time and possible to plot or cut the graded seam piece.
  • andego1986andego1986 Posts: 82
    Any pattern perimeter changes no matter how small you have to re-seam the pattern( update seams)
  • VasylVasyl Posts: 1,699 ✭✭✭✭
    If you want grade seam line separate perimeter's line the you'll do double work...
    You've grade perimeter's line. The seam should be grad automatically. 
    About notch.... There change behaviour how notch have transfer from perimeter's line to seam in notch's properties 
  • EricFromBCEricFromBC Posts: 92 ✭✭
    @khan_adnan90
    This maybe what you are looking for.

    After the initial grading and adding seam allowance...
    1) Swap the sew and cut line (to have the cut line as solid line)
    2) Copy Piece No Seam
    Now you can grade the cut line and the sew line separately.
    You will be doing twice the work on grading, with a increase risk of the two not matching.
  • khan_adnan90khan_adnan90 Posts: 45
    We make a base pattern that has 0% shrinkage. Then make different shrinkage patterns from that base pattern. Usually, the seam allowance is fixed and grading never required. But this new style requires grading in seam allowance.

    After trying different ways, it seems that no matter what process I follow, I have to work second time after adding shrinkage. Whether it's "seam update/re-notching/swap-sew". There is a risk of error.

    I am thinking of working with two different models due to difference of grading in seam allowance. In this case there will be no problem of grading or notch movement. However, I have to work twice. But the chances of grading/notch movement error will be greatly reduced.
  • VasylVasyl Posts: 1,699 ✭✭✭✭
    Excuse me. But if you add shrink then all peace will be modified...
    You can have single pieces's set but have a lot of different markers or models with different shrinkage...
  • khan_adnan90khan_adnan90 Posts: 45
    edited February 14
    As you surely know, when working on a large scale you will get fabrics of different shrinkage due to which you must make multiple models and markers.
  • VasylVasyl Posts: 1,699 ✭✭✭✭
    You are right. Multiple markers. But one model. Cos each marker can be set own shrinkage.

    But this is only my opinion...
    You can do as you guess is better for you.
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